BLOG - Page 7

Tilia Cordata is a species of Tilia native to much of Europe, from Britain through central Fennoscandia, to central Russia, and south to central Spain, Italy, Greece, Bulgaria, Romania, Turkey, the Caucasus, and western Asia.

Tilia Cordata is a narrowly domed tree with a moderate growth rate, and can eventually attain a height of 40 m.

The small yellow-green hermaphrodite flowers are produced in clusters of five to eleven in early summer with a leafy yellow-green subtending bract, have a rich, heavy scent. The trees are much visited by bees. 

Betula Pendula, commonly known as Silver Birch or Warty Birch, is a species of tree in the family Betulaceae, native to Europe and parts of Asia, though in southern Europe it is only found at higher altitudes. Its range extends into Siberia, China and southwest Asia in the mountains of northern Turkey, the Caucasus and northern Iran.

Silver Birch is a genuine native, growing here since the end of the Ice Age. The birch is a temperate tree, grown as an ornamental plant, also for its timber. It is used for a range of purposes, from broom-making and steeple-chase fencing to medicines.

The Silver Birch is a medium-sized deciduous tree that owes its common name to the white peeling bark on the trunk.

The Silver Birch is a medium-sized deciduous tree, typically reaching 15 to 25 m tall with a slender trunk usually under 40 cm diameter. The twigs are slender and often pendulous and the leaves are roughly triangular with doubly serrate margins and turn yellow in autumn before they fall.

Silver Birch can be used to improve soil quality for other plants to grow. Its deep roots bring otherwise inaccessible nutrients into the tree, which are recycled on to the soil surface when the tree sheds its leaves.

The catkins appear early in spring and release their pollen in clouds during April. The leaves emerge shortly after, a bright emerald green at first, turning golden in autumn.

The buds are small and sticky, and development is sympodial, that is to say the terminal bud dies away and growth continues from a lateral bud. Some shoots are long and bear the male catkins at the tip, while others are short and bear female catkins. The immature male catkins are present during the winter but the female catkins develop in the spring, soon after the leaves unfurl.

Description: Macerated in water and glycerin roe caviar.

Solubility: Soluble in water (water soluble)

Recommended dosage: Between 2% and 10%

Scientific name: Fucus vesiculosus L. Belongs to the class Phaeophyceae class.

Recommendations: The color or transparency of plant extracts can evolve after production without affecting the product properties. If turbidity should be filtered before use.

Storage conditions: It is very important to keep the product in tightly closed containers away from direct sunlight and at temperatures not exceeding 5 ° C. In case you do not have refrigerators, store the product in the cooler area as possible and free from artificial light.

“There’s no standardization or regulation behind this ingredient name. It can essentially mean any extract or partial extract or oil from fish eggs, with no specific fish in mind. The Caviar we eat usually comes from Sturgeon or Salmon, but Caviar Extract might come from any number of fishes that may or may not have a similar nutrient profile.” - Brian Barron, a professional beauty mythbuster and co-author of "The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here".

Caviar is the name given to the roe of some Acipenseridae species. Through history, Caviar has been considered as a synonym for refinement. The taste for sturgeon roe was initiated by Persians.

The Extract of Caviar is obtained Caviar prepared from egg various salmonids and grown in fish farm. No sturgeons of the real Caviar is produced. Although from a gastronomic point of view this is much tastier, for natural cosmetics they are very similar.

Caviar Extract is obtained by an original method with a mixture of water and glycerin, at a temperature between 50 and 60C with German Caviar Lumpfish or roe.

It is advisable to previously dissolve the extract in a part of water intended for the preparation of the final product and filter after about 12 - 24 hours at rest. Often it used in products for mature skin that needs intense nutrition in order to return all items to be lost over the years.

Caviar Extract can be used into a creams or moisturizing base extracts. If you want a lighter, oil-free feeling you can choose the carbomer based gel with Caviar Extract.

Chemical structure:

The extract obtained from Caviar contains proteins, essential amino acids (vital protein components), Vitamins A, E, D, B complex, lipids and trace elements.

The amino acids such as glutamic acid, methionien, lysine, arginine, histidine and aspartic acid are essential for cell metabolism.

The average amino acid composition of the protein in the Caviar: Isoleucine (5,2), Lysine (8,8), Methionine (9,0), Cystine (3,0), Phenylalanine (1,2), Tyrosine (4,4), Treonine (3,8), Tryptophane (5,1), Valine (1,0), Arginine (6,1), Histidine (6,3), Alanine (3,1), Aspartic acid (6,6), Glutamic acid (11,7), Glycine(14,2), Proline (5,4), Serine (4,2).

Caviar Extract has moisturizing andemollient properties because of its hygroscopic, water-retaining substances, which improves hydration of the horny layer. Additionally, it has native properties due to high protein and amino acidscontents.

Studies have led to the conclusion that Caviar helps, especially, the process of skin rejuvenation. This is because the chemical composition of these cells resembles that of young cells of the epidermis, with high doses of essential fatty acids, amino acids, minerals and vitamins.

The use of Caviar Extract is fully recommended in moisturizing and notional perpetrations and it can be used in preparation for aged and wrinkled skins.

The cosmetic benefits of Caviar are known since the mid-twentieth century, where the Caviar has become one of the most selective and exclusive cosmetic ingredients.

Caviar Extract is a great asset aging. Repairs, reaffirms, stimulates and moisturizes while protecting it from solar aggression. Its main use is in skin creams and hair masks.

Anti-aging, repairing, firming and moisturizing: proteins containing Caviar improve hydration and elasticity of the skin smoothing and firming the tissues.

Vitamins having an important role in protection, correction and cell renewal, both skin and hair. Due to this, they are used in creating cosmetic products restorative, anti-aging and conditioning skin and hair action.

Stimulating and revitalizing: also has several nutrients that stimulate and revitalize the natural balance of the skin.  Antioxidants and light protection: the rich composition of Vitamins A having the Caviar makes it a very important antioxidant active. It protects tissues from sun exposure and damage caused in the epidermis. Therefore, many laboratories use it in their formulas to create protective sunscreens for hair.

Silk proteins are usually produced within specialized glands in these animals after biosynthesis in epithelial cells that line the glands, followed by secretion into the lumen of the gland prior to spinning into fibers. Silkworm Silk has been used commercially as biomedical sutures for decades and in textile production for centuries.

Silk is a natural Protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The Protein fiber of Silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by certain insect larvae to formcocoons.

The best - known Silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the Mulberry Silkworm Bombyx Mori reared in captivity. The shimmering appearance of Silk is due to the triangular prism - like structure of the Silk fibre, which allows Silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles, thus producing different colors.

Silk Protein or Peptide comes from Silk fibers and is added to many beauty products. Produced by silkworms, water - soluble Silk Proteins are created through a chemical process called hydrolysis.

However, in practice, Silk Proteins are not very effective moisturizing ingredients. That’s because in their native form, they are very large molecules and they are not easy to incorporate into body washes or shampoos.

Companies that sell Silk Proteins have to break them down into smaller units that are more water soluble and therefore easier to work with.

This process of breaking big Proteins into smaller pieces is called “Hydrolysis”. The good side of this is hydrolyzed Proteins are easier to put into formulas. The bad side of this is, they aren’t very effective because making the molecules smaller causes them to lose much of their film forming properties.

Silkworm Silk from Bombyx  Mori consists primarily of two Protein components, fibroin, the structural protein of Silk Fibers, and Sericins, the water - soluble glue -like Proteins that bind the Fibroin fibers together. Silk Fibroin consists of heavy and light chain polypeptides linked by a disulfide bond. Fibroin is the Protein of interest for biomedical materials and it has to be purified or extracted from the silkworm cocoon by removal of the Sericin.

Silk Proteins or Peptides come in powder or liquid forms. It has a low molecular weight, which allows it to be Water soluble and permeable. It’s available as a light yellow, transparent liquid or white powder. Silk is Water soluble, we should dissolving it into the Water.

Chemical structure:

 It represents white, yellowish or off-white powder with characteristic odor, soluble in water and Alcohol, рН of 1% Water solution 4,0 - 7,0.

Silk emitted by the silkworm consists of two main proteins, Sericin and Fibroin, Fibroin being the structural center of the Silk, and Serecin being the sticky material surrounding it. Fibroin is made up of the amino acids Gly-Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala and forms beta pleated sheets. Hydrogen bonds form between chains, and side chains form above and below the plane of the hydrogen bond network.

The active components stipulating Silk Powder effect are amino acids and oligopeptides received by means of alkaline hydrolysis of Silk Proteins.

Glycine, alanine and serine compose about 80% of amino - acid content of dry Silk Extracts. The sections with the following amino - acid sequence are characteristic for oligopeptides: Gly-Ala-GIy-AIa-GIy-Ser.

Silk is credited with the ability to retain 10,000 times its weight in Water, resulting in optimum conditioning and increased strength.

How to prepare a silk Liquid:

In hot Water pour a little Salt, then the liquid becomes clear, the powder is fully melted. In the market  liquid Silk always is add Salt.

The production of the cream:  slowly pour Silk Powder in the heated Water phase and well dissolved before connecting with the oil phase.

The production without heating:  it must be a powder mix of heated water, add some Salt and then mixed with other ingredients.

If you have Silk Liquid then add a few drops in mixture after culminating it.

Store in a cool dry place.

Recommended Usage Level: 1 - 2.5%
 
Self life: 2 years.

Bee Pollen comes in tiny little golden - coloured granules that are sweet to taste. It is gathered while bees visit flowers collecting nectar, some is brushed off their legs and collected when they enter the hive.

Bee Pollen contains vitamins, minerals, carbohydrates, lipids, and protein. It comes from the Pollen that collects on the bodies of bees. Bee Pollen is the Pollen ball that has been packed by worker honeybees into pellets.  

The old Egyptians describe Pollen as "A Life - Giving Dust". Pollen and its nutritional value is still surrounded by mysteries. It is called the only perfectly complete food. It is one of nature’s most completely nourishing foods, with nearly all the nutrients required by humans.

Foraging bees bring pollen back to the hive, where they pass it off to other worker bees, who pack the Pollen into cells with their heads. During collection and possibly packing, the Pollen is mixed with nectar and bee salivary secretions.

Bee Pollen is the primary source of protein for the hive. When the Pollen ball is complete, a single female lays an egg on top of the pollen ball, and seals the brood cell. The term “Bee Bread” is reserved for the original Bee Pollen stored in the combs. Thus, the product  cannot be called “Home Bee Bread” or fermented Pollen.

Bee Pollen was eaten only by baby bees to help them grow. These days, people can eat Bee Pollen too.

Chemical structure:

The average composition is said to be 40 - 60% simple sugars (fructose and glucose), 2 - 60% proteins, 3% minerals and vitamins, 1 - 32% fatty acids, and 5% diverse other components.

Fresh, bee collected Pollen contains about 20-30 g Water per 100 g. This high humidity is an ideal culture medium for micro-organisms like bacteria and yeast. For prevention of spoilage and for preservation of a maximum quality the Pollen has to be harvested daily and immediately placed in a freezer. After two days of storage in the freezer, the pest insects will be killed.

Self life: A microbiological and sensory point of view Pollen remains stable until 1,5 years of storage at room temperature. Under these conditions Pollen keeps its sensory and microbiological quality for a storage period of 2 years, if stored in a cool, dry and dark place. Pollen loses a considerable amount of its antioxidant activity (about 59%) after one year.

Dried Pollen stored at room temperature: 12 months;
Dried Pollen packed in vacuum:  24 months;
Frozen fresh pollenstored in the freezer: 12 months.

Silk Protein can be used as a food additive. It is food suplement.

Silk Proteins are easily absorbed by skin, possess perfect moisturizing properties, improve metabolism of corium and epidermis, take regulatory effect on melanin level, activate skin regeneration and promote healing of wounds, scars, possess wrinkle smoothing effect.

Silk is a natural Protein and a natural moisture management system, which is really neat.

Its chemical composition is close to that of human skin and hair, meaning Silk helps damaged skin re - generate. Silk Proteins can help moisturize skin and smooth hair because hair and skin are also made of Protein and because Silk Proteins are large molecules we must have hydrolysis method.

Silk Protein, hydrolyzed will add luster, body, and manageability to hair when used in hair care preparations. As an amphoteric Protein, it is compatible with cationic, anionic, and non-ionic materials.

Another reason that Silk Proteins aren't very effective is that they won't stick to hair very well from a rinse out product (like a shampoo or a body wash.) There are special proteins (called quaternized Proteins) that are chemically modified so they'll stick to hair and skin better.

Sodium Hyaluronate is generally classified as non - toxic. Sodium Hyaluronate is also not known to be irritating skin.

Its water - binding and water - attracting attributes fill up the spaces between the connective fibers Collagen and elastin in the dermis. When injected into the face, Hyaluronic acid functions to hydrate and separate the skin, holding onto Water and supporting all that makes the face plump and voluptuous.

Tea tree is known by men for more than 5000 years, it is part of many legends. Tea is said to be the oldest drink in the world. It is also the second most consumed drink just behind water.

Tea consumption has its legendary origins in China dating back to more than 4,000 years ago, making it the oldest plant - based tea known.  The Kissa Yojoki (Book of Tea), written by Zen priest Eisai in 1191, describes how drinking Green tea may affect five vital organs, the shapes of Tea plants, flowers and leaves, and how to grow and process Tea leaves.

Camellia Sinensis is a species of evergreen shrub or small tree whose leaves and leaf buds are used to produce tea. It is of the genus Camellia of flowering plants in the family Theaceae.  White tea, Yellow tea, Green tea, Oolong, Pu-erh tea and Black tea are all harvested from one or the other, but are processed differently to attain varying levels of oxidation.

Tea plants prefer a rich and moist growing location in full to part sun. Camellia Sinensis is an evergreen shrub or small tree that is usually trimmed to below 2 m when cultivated for its leaves. It has a strong taproot. The flowers are yellow-white, 2,5 - 4 cm in diameter, with 7 to 8 petals. The leaves are 4 - 15 cm long and 2 - 5 cm broad. Fresh leaves contain about 4% caffeine, as well as related compounds including theobromine.

The Green Tea plants are grown in rows that are pruned to produce shoots in a regular manner, and in general are harvested three times per year. The first flush takes place in late April to early May. The second harvest usually takes place from June through July, and the third picking takes place in late July to early August. Sometimes, there will also be a fourth harvest. It is the first flush in the spring that brings the best - quality leaves.

Different leaf ages produce differing Tea qualities, since their chemical compositions are different. Usually, the tip (bud) and the first two to three leaves are harvested for processing. This hand picking is repeated every one to two weeks.

Green Tea originated in China, but its production has spread to many countries in Asia.

Green Tea is prepared by exposing the gathered leaves to the air until superfluous moisture is eliminated, when they are roasted over a brisk wood fire and continually stirred until they become moist and flaccid.

After this they pass to the rolling table, and are rolled into balls and subjected to pressure which twists them and gets rid of the moisture. They are then shaken out on flat trays, again roasted over a slow and steady charcoal fire, and kept in rapid motion for an hour to an hour and a half, till they assume a dullish green colour. After this they are winnowed, screened, and graded into different varieties.

Chinese Green Teas are traditionally pan - fired, unlike the Japanese steaming process. Other processes in China include oven - dried and sun - dried. Due to the different production process, Chinese Teas are said to have a more "Earthy" taste than Japanese Teas. Zhejiang Province is home to the most famous of all teas.

Green Tea is ubiquitous in Japan and is commonly known simply as "Tea". Tea was first used in China, and in 1191, was brought to Japan by Myoan Eisai, a Japanese Buddhist priest who also introduced the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism.

Teas from Japan may be referred to as "Japanese Tea". Unlike Chinese Green Teas which are pan - fired, Japanese Green Teas are steamed giving them a more "vegetative" or "leafy" taste.

The best Japanese Green Tea is said to be from the Yame region of Fukuoka Prefecture and from the Uji region of Kyoto.

Alternative Names: Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Salt, Sodium Hyaluronate Solution, Sodium Salt Hyaluronic Acid, Healon, Hyalurone Sodium.

Sodium hyaluronate is the Sodium Salt of hyaluronic Acid. Hyaluronic Acid is found naturally in the fluid that bathes joints, in the vitreous humor of the eye and in the skin. Sodium Hyaluronate has a smaller molecular size than hyaluronic Acid, causing it to easily penetrate the skin's surface, and is able to retain a relatively large amount of Water - up to 1,000 its own weight. This means it can penetrate to lower layers of the skin, attract and retain Water, and promote nutrient absorption.

The magic of this ingredient lies in its ability to retain moisture. It’s considered to have a greater capacity to hold moisture than any other natural or synthetic polymer. In fact, one gram of Hyaluronic Acid is able to hold up to six liters of Water.

Hyaluronic Acid in the past was primarily derived from rooster combs, but given the increasing concern about animal derived ingredients, a method was developed in 1989 to extract Hyaluronic Acid from vegetable sources such as soybean or corn, using afermentation process involving bacteria. Bacteriais used in fermenting many products such as wine, beer, cheese, yoghurt and even the leavening of breed. This process creates a very high quality Hyaluronic Acid.

Hyaluronic Acid is a macromolecule and it can be detected only within living organisms. Hyaluronic Acid is soluble in Water.

Sodium Hyaluronate is available in various molecular weights, having different costs. The lower the molecular weight, the merrier are the chances the Hyaluronic Acid molecules penetrate the derma. The lower the molecular weight, more expensive is its price and less it moisturizes the skin. This is also why the low molecular version of Sodium Hyaluronate is usually used in synergy with the high molecular weight of Sodium Hyaluronate.

 In addition to seeing Hyaluronic Acid listed as an ingredient in products, you’ve probably also seen the similarly named sodium hyaluronate. There indeed is a connection. Chemically, sodium Hyaluronate is a Salt derived from Hyaluronic Acid and it has unique advantages for skin in comparison to “regular” Hyaluronic Acid.

Sodium Hyaluronate main strength lies in its molecular size. During the process of creating Sodium Hyaluronate, its molecular weight decreases due to the removal of lipids, proteins, and nucleic acids. Removing these compounds makes the Sodium Hyaluronate molecule much smaller than that of Hyaluronic Acid. That means that the sodium hyaluronate, when applied topically, can penetrate the skin more easily than the Hyaluronic Acid, which makes the Sodium Hyaluronate an asset in skincare products.

The strong aroma of Wintergreen essential oil improves attentiveness and stimulates the mind. Applying this oil to your skin is said to heighten the vibration of the body and accentuate sound.

Increased vibration helps in unveiling spiritual awareness and paves way to the harmony of self and divinity. This attribute has made Wintergreen oil to be an incredible part of the ancient chants (Mantras) and meditations where sound was used for adding spiritualstrength.

Can indicate that you have been hurt in relationships. You have been left or emotionally or mentally battered. It is time for you to heal the hurt and get on with your life. It is time to love again. Wintergreen balances the Heart chakra.

Wintergreen essential oil used in some perfumery applications especially in forest type fragrances.

Therapeutic Properties :

Analgesic
Astringent
Carminative
Diuretic
Stimulant
Anodyne
Anti-rheumatic
Antispasmodic

Pregnancy / Lactation : Avoid if pregnant. Should be avoided in pregnancy and lactation.

Children: It is safest to consult a qualified aromatherapy practitioner before using oils with children. Use extreme caution when using essential oils with children and give children only the gentlest oils at extremely low doses. Avoid topical use on children under 7 years.

Wintergreen essential oil is used as a counterirritant in treating pain, sores, muscular pains, lower back pain, achy joints and inflammation, where counterirritants act by creating an irritable sensation that lessens swelling and pain in the tissues.

The analgesic, relaxant and anodyne properties of this oil cause numbness and warmth when applied on the painful area. It eliminates pain, reduce stress, drive away tension and induce good sleep by inhibiting the formation of prostaglandins responsible for causing pain. This is mainly due to the presence ofMethyl salicyclate which is equivalent to the conventional medicine Aspirin (the fundamental component of Aspirin is salicyclate).

Botanical Name: Cyperus scariosus

Common Method of Extraction: Steam distillation

Part Typically Used: Dried roots (Rhizomes)

Color: Dark brown can change color to a transparent green

Consistency: Thick

Perfumery Note: Base / Middle

Shelf Life: 2-3 years

Strength of Initial Aroma: Strong, Woody, leathery, slightly sweet and spicy, earthy, similar notes of Vetiver and Agarwood (Oud).

Blends Well With: Bergamot, Black Pepper, Cassia, Cedarwood Atlantic, Cedarwood Himalayan, Cinnamon Leaf, Clary Sage, Geranium, Grapefruit Pink, Jasmine grand, Jasmine sambac, May Chang, Myrrh, Neroli, Orange Sweet, Osmanthus, Patchouli, Rose Moroc, Sandalwood, Tangerine, Vanilla, Labdanum, Ylang Ylang essetial oils.

Common name :

Sanskrit- Nagar musta
Hindi - Nagar motha
Chinese - Xiang Fu , Shacao

Chemical structure:

Steam distillation of the tubers of Cypriol yields 0.075–0.080% of an essential oil, the principal content of which is cyperene.

The major chemical components of this herb are essential oils, flavonoids, terpenoids, sesquiterpenes, cyprotene, cyperene, aselinene, rotundene, valencene, cyperol, gurjunene, trans-calamenene, cadalene, cyperotundone, mustakone, isocyperol, acyperone.


Nagarmotha (Cyperus rotundus), a cosmopolitan weed, is found in all tropical, subtropical and temperate regions of the world. In India, it is commonly known as Nagarmotha and it belongs to the family Cyperacea.

This oil is famous even today in many parts of India as a renowned perfume for scenting saris and other traditional outfits. It has been in use in the production of perfumes, attars, incense sticks, soaps, compounds, hair treatments and in flavoring tobacco products.

Cypriol is an herbaceous plant with morphology similar to papyrus plants, as both plants are members of the Cyperus genus. The erect, angular stems bear short, slender, brilliant-green leaves. The aromatic rhizomes form a dense root system. The plants grow in riverbeds in India's Madhya Pradesh state.

To produce the essential oil, the roots and rhizomes are harvested from April to June by members of neighboring tribes. The raw material is collected in the villages and transported to the production plant.

Therapeutic Properties :

Anti-inflammatory
Anti-anxiety
Decongestant
Digestive tonic
Improve circulation
Menstrual cramps
Nervousness

Contraindications : Do not take essential oils internally. Always remember to dilute essential oils in suitable carrier oils before using it topically as pure and organic essential oils are highly concentrated liquids. Avoid using Nagarmotha essential oil on children and epileptics.

Pregnancy / Lactation : No formal testing, avoid in pregnancy and lactation.

The essential oil steam distilled from the rhizomes of this plant has been documented for treating numerous health conditions ranging from Hepatitis B to stress relateddegenerative diseases.

Using 4 drops of Nagarmotha essential oil in warm bathing water helps in calming down a nervous stomach, check weight gain, discard toxins from the body, reduces rheumatic pain and treats inflammation and anorexia.

Modern alternative medicine recommends using the plant to treat nausea, fever and inflammation; for pain reduction: for muscle relaxation and many other disorders.

Helps in reducing respiratory congestion, cough, bronco-pulmonary congestion, bronchitis, loosening the mucus and phlegm deposits and comforts the digestive system.

The diuretic properties of this oil also help in eliminating the toxic substances from the body through sweat and urine, making it useful in reducing inflammation as well.

Gently massaging the painful areas can help in treating dysmennorhea and rheumatoid arthritis.

Nagarmotha oil acts as a tonic for the nervous system and influences the regular functioning of the body.
Popularly known as a qi-in-blood medicine in China, Nagarmotha is trusted to penetrate the blood stream and treat irregular menstruation, dysmennorhea or menstrual pain, overdue periods and depression in women mainly during menstruation.

The essential oil of Nagarmotha is illustrated in Ayurveda as a natural enhancer of the biological fire and is an effective digestive aid. Ayurveda illustrates Nagarmotha as a detoxifying herb and as the best ama-pachaka (eliminator of endo-toxins).

Nagarmotha essential oil is known to pacify Pitta and Kapha energies.

Botanical Name: Zanthoxylum armatum

Common Method of Extraction: Steam distillation

Part Typically Used: Dried Fruit (Berries) / Leafs

Color: Pale yellow to reddish brown

Consistency: Fluid liquid

Perfumery Note: Middle

Shelf Life: 4-5 years

Strength of Initial Aroma: Fruity, fresh, spicy, alluring, sensual, balsamic, earthy, exotic, slightly bitter, slightly spicy, strong

Blends Well With: Rosalina, Ambrette, Black Pepper, Balsam of Peru, Ylang-Ylang, Lavender , Ambrette, Black Spruce, Blood Orange, Buddha Wood, Cedarwood Himalayan, Clary Sage, Copaiba Balsam, Elemi, Geranium, Jasmine sambac, Lotus Pink, Neroli, Siam Wood essantial oils, Rose absolute, Sandalwood absoliute.

Common (Indian) name:

Hindi - Darmar, nepali dh
aniya, tejphal, tumuru
Bengali - Gaira, tambul,
Oriya - Tundopoda
Sanskrit - Tumburu, dhiva, gandhalu.

Zanthoxylum essential oil for its strong and spicy smell widely used in food products aromatisation.

Timur fruits are used as spices, condiments, medicine and as flavoring agents for soups and many other conventional dishes.

This plant is a shrub or a small tree, 6 meter tall or more, with dense foliage, found in the hot valleys of the Himalayas at altitudes of 1,000 to 2100 m. The dried fruits collected from the wild or cultivated fields, are dried before steam distillation, yielding an essential oil (c. 22,3%).

Zanthoxylum armatum DC found in the hot valleys of the Himalayas from Jammu to Bhutan at altitudes of 1,000-2100 m and in Eastern Ghats in Orissa and Andhra Pradesh at 1,200 m., in India. It is also sometimes planted for hedges in Assam.

Therapeutic Properties :

Antidepressant/uplifting
Antispasmodic
Analgesic
Anti-inflammatory - reduce inflammation
Antiseptic - assists in fighting germs/infections
Antibacterial - destructive to bacteria
Cooling
Digestive
Immune support - stimulates functioning of immune system
Sedative
Tonic - strengthens and restores vitality
Nourishing for the skin.

Contraindications : There are no known concerns with this oil. Irritant in high concentration due to rubefacient properties. Use in moderation.

Pregnancy / Lactation : No formal testing, avoid in pregnancy and lactation.

Also a good bug repellant! Perhaps because of its known action against mosquitos, and efforts to combat malaria, there is a good deal of scientific research on the properties of this oil.

The essential oil is said to possess antiseptic, disinfectant and deodorant properties. The freshly distilled essential oil from the seeds exhibited strong antibacterial activity against  Escherichia coli, Vibro cholera, Micrococcus pyrogens var. aureus, Shigella dysenteriae and Salmonella typhi. The seed oil possesses ascaricidal, antibacterial, anthelmintic and antifungal properties.

Zanthoxylum armatum essential oil has also been used as a gentle massage oil blended with carrier oils like Coconut oil to treat fibrositis, rheumatism, leg cramps, varicose veins and certain other skin problems. It is also said to stimulate the mucous membranes, lymphatic system and promote blood circulation.

Xanthoxylum is wonderful for an upset stomach, menstrual cramps, pain and muscle spasms. It's also very healing for allergies, colds and flu-especially if the person is experiencing aches and pains, coughing and difficulty sleeping.

Ayurveda states that the tree of Tomar known as Tumburu or Gandhalu in the Ayurvedic world is yet another significant gift of nature to mankind. The essential oil extracted from the seeds of this tree are said to have healing properties like antiseptic, hepatoprotective, stomachic, disinfectant, deodorant, anthelmintic and carminative.

Tomar seed oil is said to possess antioxidant properties and it also contains phenolic compounds. It is a proven fact that plants that contain antioxidant property is also said to exhibit hepatoprotective action.

A renowned study on "Hepatoprotective Effect of Zanthoxylum armatum DC" proved that the presence of ethanolic extracts in Zanthoxylum armatum showed hepatoprotective effect against liver damage by regularizing the increased levels of the hepatic enzymes and showed shielding effect on the plasma membrane of hepatocytes. This proved the effectiveness of using this herb in Ayurvedic treatment for liver disorders.

Himalayan healers use Xanthoxylum essential oil mainly for respiratory conditions and to improve vocal quality by stimulating and moisturizing the larynx. This makes it a most interesting oil in a gargle for singers, stage actors, narrators and public speakers.

Xanthoxylum is high in a component called linalol. Linalol-high oils offer profound healing for infections, pain, swelling, spasms, allergies and injuries. This oil is also deeply calming for the nervous system. It can be used daily and is a wonderful tonic for overall health.

Botanical Name: Pistacia lentiscus

Common Method of Extraction: Steam distillation

Part Typically Used: Resin - gum

Color: Dark green

Consistency: Thick

Perfumery Note:  Middle / Base

Strength of Initial Aroma:  Light, slightly balsamic, fresh, lemony, gentle fragrance.

Blends Well With: Frankincense, Myrrh, Rose Otto, Cardamom, Clove, Grapefruit, Lemon, Grand Fir, Rockrose, Immortelle, Inula and Palo Santo.

It is collect leaves and young twigs from Pistacia Lentiscus in the spring, when the plants flower. The plant - material has to be distilled fresh, so collection and distillation takes place the same day. A 4 hour distillation yields about 0.2% of essential oil. The oil has a lemony, balsamic, resinous scent.

As the resin, also the leaves, twigs, flowers and berries contain a small amount of essential oil, which can be distilled. The essential oil obtained from the gum / resin is commonly called Mastic oil, whereas the oil obtained from the leaves is correctly called lentisk oil.

Pistacia Lentiscus has been known for thousands of years. It is another herb known to the ancient Egyptians, who used its resin as an incense and for embalming. Recently scientists found evidence of mastic gum trade from Chios 2400 years ago, when they analysed remains in amphorae from a shipwreck off the island.

The bush is attributes to Artemis (Diana). Dictynna, an ancient virgin-huntress was a priestess of Artemis, and a goddess in her own right in Crete, where she was worshiped since Minoan times.

It is told, that king Minos chased the nymph Britomaris, who leapt into the sea off a steep cliff to avoid his pursuits. She was deified and rewarded with immortality for her chastity by Artemis, who gave her the name Dictynna, lady of the nets, and turned her priestess into a Lentisk bush so that she forever could remain a virgin. Its balsamic, resinous scent symbolizes virginity and purity, the eternal maiden aspect of Artemis.

Element Association: Air

Magical Associations: Awareness

Astrological Association: Gemini, Aquarius

Planetary Association: Sun

Season: Spring

Emotional Attributes: clarifying and mentally refreshing, cleansing / purifying, meditation, prayer, love.

Pregnancy / Lactation: Information regarding safety and efficacy in pregnancy and lactation is lacking.

Contraindications: Avoid use with hypersensitivity to any ingredients of mastic gum as well as with pollen hypersensitivity.

It is an energetically complex essential oil. It has a similar property to Peppermint in its ability to clear away old, stagnant energies. In fact, this is what Mastic seems to do best, clearing on the physical as well as energetic levels.

Besides being used in toothpaste, chewing gum and confectionery, mastic is an ingredient in the making of liqueurs. A Greek grape spirit, Mastiha, is flavoured with the resin, as is the Turkish liqueur, raki.

It is essential in rahat locum, the authentic Turkish delight, and it is found in recipes for breads and pastries, ice creams, sweet puddings and almond cake. Mastic is also used as a binding agent with oil, lemon juice and spices to coat the traditional Turkish doner kebab - as the meat cooks, thin slivers are sliced off and served in pita bread.

Originally a sap, Mastic is sun - dried into pieces of brittle,translucent resin. When chewed, the resin softens and becomes a bright white and opaque gum. The flavor is bitter at first, but after some chewing, it releases a refreshing, slightly pine or cedar - like flavor.

Mastic was the original chewing gum and mouth freshener. As a hardened gum, the flavour is initially bitter, but after a few minutes of chewing takes on its gummy consistency and releases a mouth freshening flavour which remains for about 15 to 20 minutes.

n Greece the best mastic comes from the island of Chios. It is used in the baking of bread and pastries, and also for one of the traditional "Spoon Sweets", gliko tou koutaliou. A spoonful of this gooey sweet followed by a glass of ice - cold water is marvellous in hot weather. In Cyprus, small rings of Mastic - flavoured bread are topped with Sesame seeds.

Mastic pounded with sugar and Rose or Orange Blossom water is a popular flavouring in the Middle East, used in desserts, sweetmeats, ice cream, syrups and cordials. Only small amounts are necessary, a quarter to half teaspoon sufficing for a dish for four people.

Resin is chewed as a chewing gum and used to flavor cakes, desserts, and candy. The oil is used in the liqueur mastiche and the Greek candy masticha.

Passiflora Edulis is a vine species of passion flower that is native to Brazil, Paraguay and northern Argentina.

The name (Passiflora) was given by Spanish missionaries to South America as an expository aid while trying to convert the indigenous inhabitants to Christianity.

The Passion Fruit is a pepo, a type of berry, round to oval, either yellow or dark purple at maturity, with a soft to firm, juicy interior filled with numerous seeds.

The different flowering seasons of the purple and yellow Passion Fruits have been mentioned under "Pollination". In some areas, as in India, the vines bear throughout the year but peak periods are, first, August to December, and, second, March to May. At the latter time, the fruits are somewhat smaller, with less juice.

In Hawaii, passionfruits mature from June through January, with heaviest crops in July and August and October and November. With variations according to cultivar, and with commercial cultivation both above and below the Equator, there need never be a shortage of raw material for processing.

Another oil name is Maracuja oil. Maracuja oil comes from the Passion flower. Its biological name is Passiflora Incarnata. So, we see that both the sources are from the same genus.

Maracuja oil is a relatively expensive oil that comes from the various varieties of Passionflower plant. However, not all Maracuja oils come from this plant. Some of the Maracuja oils may be extracted from the seeds of Passion Fruit. Despite the differences in source, these two oils are quite similar. The oil is light and is considered to be a good emollient.

Chemical strucutre:

Passion Fruit oil is extracted from the seeds and composed mainly of linoleic acid (77%) with smaller amounts of oleic acid (15%) and palmitic acid (10%).

The oil showed high levels of unsaturated fatty acids (87,59%), including mainly linoleic (73,14%) and oleic (13,83%) acids, tocopherol (499,30 mg/kg) and phenolic compounds (1,314,13 mg GAE/kg).

Passion Fruit oil also contains  ascorbic acid, β-carotene, calcium, flavanoids, phosphorus and potassium.

The colour  of this oil is pale yellow to yellow / orange. The dark purple edulis variety is smaller than a Lemon, though it is less acidic than the yellow Passion Fruit, and has a richer aroma and flavour.

Botanical Name: Boswellia serrata

Botanical Origin: India

Common Method of Extraction: Steam distilled

Part Typically Used: Gum Resin

Color: Clear to pale yellow

Consistency: Thin

Perfumery Note: Medium

Shelf Life: 2-3 years

Strength of Initial Aroma: Spicy, balsamic, citrus-terpenic fragrance, instantly recognizable odor.

Blends Well With: Basil, bergamot, buddah wood, cedarwood himalayan, chamomile roman, cinnamon leaf or bark, clary sage, coriander, geranium, ginger fresh, grapefruit pink, kaffir lime, lavender bulgarian, lemon, lime, neroli, orange sweet, sandalwood, siam wood, tangerine, vanilla bourbon essential oils.

Common name: Indian Frankincense, The Liquid Gold

Sanskrit: Shallaki, Sallai guggulu
Latin : Olibanum Indicum

Chemical structure: There has thus been much confusion about the proper identification of the various types of Frankincense. This same complexity carries over to the chemical composition of the oil, which has over 200 individual natural chemicals that endow it with a complex aromatic bouquet and therapeutic profile. There is considerable variation in the proportion of these components depending on the micro-climate where the trees grow, the season at which the resin is harvested, and a number of other factors.

Nutriceuticals are natural products, or synthesized compounds that match natural products, prepared by enzymatic transformation that retains a natural quality, rather than simple chemical transformation. They are used as dietary or herbal supplements that have implied or explicitly proclaimed health benefits. The concept of a nutriceutical came from the idea that nutritional supplements, such as vitamins and minerals, could be used in place of pharmaceuticals in alleviating some ailments or, at the least, promoting the healthy function of the body. The substances in the nutriceuticalcategory include beneficial compounds in foods that are not counted among the nutrients, as well as various herbs and herbal active components.

Frankincense have given rise to popular nutriceuticals: Frankincense yields Boswellic acids (named after the botanical source Boswellia).

Boswellic acids are reputed to have potent anti-inflammatory activity. Research has demonstrated an inhibition of the 5-LOX (lipoxygenase) system, involved in the enzymatic pathways that produce inflammatory molecules (leukotrienes and thromboxanes) from common fatty acids. Drug products that inhibit these enzymes are mainly used in the treatment of arthritis, though there are applications for other inflammatory diseases, such as asthma and ulcerative colitis.

Further,5-LOXinhibitors, including Boswellic acid, are now being investigated for potentialanticancer activity. The standardized Boswellic acid preparations list their content as 50 - 70% Boswellic acids, though it has been suggested that these are actually total organic acids from Frankincense, with Boswellic acids as the major component. The Sabinsa product is trademarked Boswellin, which should not be confused with the more general term Boswellic acid.

Note: Frankincense from India has its own unique aroma distinct from that of Arabian (Boswellia Sacra) and North African (Boswellia Carterii) Frankincense. Large, wonderfully fragrant golden brown Indian Frankincense resins with a deeper more balsamic and woody notes than the Arabian and North African resins.

The word Frankincense comes from the term “Franc encens”, which means quality incense in old French. Frankincense can properly be said to belong to the family of sacred scents.

Boswellia Serrata is a plant that produces Indian Frankincense, Salai, referred to in Sanskrit as Shallaki and in Latin as Olibanum Indicum.

The plant is native of India and the Punjab region that extends into Pakistan. The Shallaki tree is generally found in dry hilly areas of the Indian sub-continent, mainly in states of Maharashtra, Gujarat and Rajasthan. India produces the Frankincense most used in Ayurvedic medicine.  

Frankincense trees can live for at least a hundred years. Their flowers are popular with bees, and the long flowering period from October to February is helpful for bee colony maintenance.

Frankincense is harvested by making small incisions in the bark of the aromatic tree, producing a milky white resin that hardens as it dries. The collected resin is separated into grades and stored in caves to cure before being sold.

Most resin (whether Myrrh or Frankincense) is obtained by tapping: making deliberate incisions with a specially designed tool or ordinary axe, about 2 inches long, into the bark of the tree.

The milky liquid that exudes hardens on exposure to air into droplets or "tears", which are then easily detached by the collector about two weeks later. New tappings are made at the same place as old ones after removing hardened resin from the previous cut. If the tapping interval is short, then a light scratching of the wood is usually sufficient to cause the resin to flow again.

The particular details of the tapping-the time of year it is undertaken, its duration, and the interval between individual tappings-vary according to the species and the customs in the area of production. For example, in Somalia there are usually two periods when Boswellia is tapped, each lasting 3-4 months, involving successive tappings at approximately 15 day intervals, with the timing of the tapping periods dependant on the onset and extent of the rains.

The resin is stored for about 12 weeks to harden. The only processing undertaken after collection is sorting and grading of the resin globules, usually done by the local merchant to whom it is sold rather than the collector.

Frankincense is among the most widely used of all essential oils. Its benefits are numerous and it has been used extensively in traditional cultures for many thousands of years. The Frankincense (Boswellia serrata) is among the most rich and exquisite of the majestic Frankincense varietals. The clean, citrus-terpenic fragrance of Frankincense oil is entwined in ancient myth and sacred ritual.  

This plant has been a true gift to the human community, serving variously not only as medicine but also as a source of dyes and of cosmetics, along with its use as an air-freshener, mosquito repellent and essential source of livelihood for individuals and communities. The resin has been a major item of commerce for at least 3,000 years.

Frankincense, along with Gold and Myrrh, was included in the gifts presented by the wise men to the infant Christ.

The Frankincense mentioned in the Old Testament of the Bible was likely the Boswellia Serrata variety, which was introduced into church ceremonies at the beginning of Christianity in Europe during the Middle Ages.

On average, during this time about 500 tons of Frankincense were used by the Orthodox and Roman Catholic churches per year. Burning Frankincense in churches had hygienic functions as well as spiritual importance: people of the Middle Ages lived in extremely unsanitary conditions, so the fumigation of churches helped reduce contagion through atmospheric purification.

Therapeutic Properties :

Anti-inflammatory
Antiseptic
Anxiety
Arthritis
Astringent
Carminative
Rheumatism
Stress
Tendonitis.

Contraindications : None.

Pregnancy / Lactation : Indian Frankincense is likely safe when used in amounts commonly found in foods. But don’t use it in the larger amounts needed for medicinal effects.

Pregnancy  / Lactation: Frankincense is safe to use during pregnancy and lactation period (beneficial for fading of stretch marks, surgery scars or marks associated with pregnancy, and for healing dry or cracked skin. reduces appearance of scars and it may also help reduce the appearance of dark spots caused from acne blemishes.).

Children:

Research shows traditional use of Frankincense in driving away evil spirits (Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, French, Asian folklore and rituals), and if we think of these spirits as obsessions, fears and anxieties which may have become manifest as physical illness, we understand the benefits of applying Frankincense for all occasions. In Somali, Ethiopian, Arabian, and Indian cultures, it is suggested that burning Frankincense daily in the house brings good health.

In Ayurvedic medicine Indian Frankincense has been used for hundreds of years for the attempted treatment of arthritis. Frankincense quicken the blood and relieve pain. However, Frankincense moves Qi (Chi)to quicken the blood and also stretches the sinews, frees the channels, soothes the network vessels, and relieves pain.

Shallaki or Sallai Guggulu (Boswellia Serrata), has been used for thousands of years in Ayurveda as the extract containing anti- inflammatory properties. It is also widely used as a wonder drug for treatment of against arthritis, rheumatism and its related disorders.

Also known as Indian Frankincense (Salai) and Olibanum, Ayurvedic medicine in India refers to it as "Dhoop” and is used extensively for conditions of arthritis including osteoarthritis, wound healing and air purification.

According to the Advanced Textbook of Traditional Chinese Medicine and Pharmacology, Frankincense and Myrrh are quite similar in their use internally. The authors say that both herbs regulate Qi energy and blood, and that they are often used together, but "their difference lies in that Frankincense can also ease the tendons and muscles, while Myrrh is better at activating blood circulation and removing stasis".

The most important component of the tree is the gum resin, which is dried and powdered to yield the medication. This powdered resin contains essential oils and a mixture of β- boswellic acids, which help reduce inflammation naturally between the joints, or even muscle inflammation in the lower back.

It is also used in respiratory ailments like severe cough. Many studies have shown the effect of this powder against disorders like bronchitis and asthma by inhibiting the inflammatory conditions leading to these diseases.

Shallaki has also remarkable properties against high blood pressure or hypertension in many patients. It also helps to maintain normal levels of cholesterol.

Frankincense oil reduces symptoms associated with menstruation and menopause by balancing hormone levels. It can help relieve pain, cramps, constipation, headaches, anxiety, nausea, fatigue, and mood swings.

Frankincense oil also helps with regulating estrogen production and reduces the risk of tumor or cyst development in pre-menopausal women.

It helps to flush out excess water from the abdomen that can cause bloating, and even relieves PMS-related stomach pains by speeding up the secretion of digestive enzymes.

It has been shown to be beneficial in reducing symptoms of leaky gut syndrome, colitis.

Frankincense essential oil is an amazing gift, it helps the cells of our body’s remember how to be perfect again as our original recipe was written.

Frankincense seems to be the master mind of oils - it makes everything remember how to be perfect - the cells, the tissues, the organs, the systems, whole body.

A few drops of the oil can be sprinkled on a hot, wet towel and applied to the chest to open the lungs and enhance deep breathing.

“In a trial published in 2011 in cancer, researchers from Egypt examined the ability of Boswellia to lower the cerebral edema associated with radiation treatments for brain tumors. The researchers concluded that BS (Indian Frankincense) could potentially be steroid-sparing for patients receiving brain irradiation.”  Myrna Chandler Goldstein and Mark A. Goldstein M.D, Healthy Herbs.

In Ayurvedic medicine Indian Frankincense has been used for hundreds of years for the attempted treatment of arthritis.

Shallaki or Sallai Guggulu (Boswellia Serrata), has been used for thousands of years in Ayurveda as the extract containing anti - inflammatory properties. It is also widely used as a wonder drug for treatment of against arthritis, rheumatism and its related disorders.

The most important component of the tree is the gum resin, which is dried and powdered to yield the medication. This powdered resin contains essential oils and a mixture of β- boswellic acids, which help reduce inflammation naturally between the joints, or even muscle inflammation in the lower back.

It is also used in respiratory ailments like severe cough. Many studies have shown the effect of this powder against disorders like bronchitis and asthma by inhibiting the inflammatory conditions leading to these diseases.

Shallaki has also remarkable properties against high blood pressure or hypertension in many patients. It also helps to maintain normal levels of cholesterol.

General use: Home fragrance, meditation, cosmetics, skin care, bath and body lotions, creams, gels, massage oil blends, perfume, candles and soaps.

The floral nuance of Frankincense Serrata makes it excellent as a base for incense blends where it works well with citrus notes, particularly Orange to round out the sweetness without overpowering. Excellent for spice, citrus, wood and oriental perfume groups adding a flair of elegance to masculine and unisex.

In skincare, Frankincense is particularly helpful for older skins, and has a definite tonic effect, helping to restore some tone to slack looking facial skin, and slowing down the appearance of wrinkles.